Better Photos!
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Part 2 - Some Essentials

Sadly, the prevalence of the Covid-19 bug and the restrictions (at least for those of us in the United Kingdom) put pay to usual festive activities. Our ball-gowns, party dresses and dinner jackets remained untouched in our cupboards. Instead, we've been slouching in our pyjamas and slippers.

But as lockdown comes to an end (hopefully!) it’s time to pick up our cameras once again!

But where to start? Remember we are focusing on the basics and using a standard basic camera, including those typically found on mobile phones.

This time we're looking and thinking about things from the perspective of the camera itself: by way of explanation we'll consider some basic camera theory and then consider the best way to hold and set our cameras up. You may need to delve into your camera or phone settings (if you aren't sure what to do a quick search of the internet for your brand and model will probably do the trick). Just be warned that different cameras will have different options. This article is pretty much as technical as it's going to get; it will be downhill from here.

Understanding Some Basic Theory

Sometimes it's helpful to understand how things work; some people like to do so, and some don't. If you're the latter feel free to jump to the next stage.

I have three cameras: the camera on my ageing iPhone (I'm still using Apple’s iPhone 6s), a ten-year-old bottom of the range DSLR camera (Nikon D3100) and the camera I use for my professional photography (Nikon D800). All these cameras have various options in the setting menus that enable me to take better photos.

At this point, it's worth having a basic understanding of how a camera works. When we press the button to take a picture, the camera creates a small opening to allow light from the scene to enter (via the lenses) to land on the sensor. The sensor gathers information about the photograph. On digital cameras, computer wizardry converts the analogue light landing on the sensor into digital data. Processing then takes place to take this digital data and make the picture recorded on our memory cards.

The opening in the camera in light is called the shutter. It allows light to enter the camera in two different ways: firstly, by how long the shutter is held open - this is called the shutter speed - and secondly, by how wide the opening is - this is called the aperture. The longer the camera shutter is open, the greater the amount of light entering the camera. The same is true of a wide aperture: the greater the opening size, the more light enters the camera. The third piece of the puzzle is the sensitivity of the sensor to light. The lower the sensitivity, the more the camera struggles to take a picture in low light conditions (this will result in digital noise, the grainy effect that looks like coloured specks of dust). Sensitivity is called ISO (from International Standards Organisation). High ISOs result in a lower quality image, especially in cheaper cameras.

All three elements, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, impact the resulting photo: altering one or more can change how the photo looks. When set to automatic, the camera looks at the scene and makes an educated guess about what settings will get the best picture. On many cameras, we can give its digital brains a helping hand. For example, we can tell the camera that we are taking a portrait photo. The camera then makes adjustments to the shutter speed, aperture and ISO to obtain a lovely portrait photo. Our instruction also changes how the camera processes the digital data it collects into a more flattering portrait.

We can't always change these settings on our camera or phone (this may be because we have to grab the camera on the spur of the moment or the camera functions are more limited). However, understanding these elements impacts how we may choose to take our photographs.

Let's think about the practical application:

Setting Up the Camera

STEP 1: Go into the camera setting and set it to record images in the maximum definition possible (the only real reason for not doing so is a shortage of space on the memory card). The greater the detail, the greater options we will have to print, enlarge, crop and edit our photographs. I am sure we've all seen images that look great in postage stamp size but look naff when enlarged.

STEP 2: If your camera has a portrait setting, turn it on. Typically this will help the camera focus on the person(s) in the image instead of other objects in the photo (it will help blur the background). The camera may also apply processing to enhance skin tones and facial features.

Using the Camera

Holding the Camera

Adopt a good posture! If we take photos in good light, then the shutter is typically only open for a small fraction of a second; it's fast enough that the camera movement doesn't show up in the photograph. However in lower light conditions (this includes photographs taken indoors, at night and in heavy shade) the shutter will be open for longer. If the camera moves while the shutter is open, it will result in a blurred image. Therefore a good posture is essential. Keep both feet on the ground and have the arm in a comfortable position.

Step back from the subject

All camera lenses distort; sometimes the distortion is pleasing, and sometimes it's not! As a general rule, the closer you are to the subject, the more disagreeable the distortion. As you step back, the distortion becomes more flattering; if you can step back and zoom in!

In these pictures of Marisa, I have started standing very close and then stepped back. You can see the dramatic difference!

Focal length 24 mm)



Focal length 50mm



Focal length 105mm



Moving back from the camera becomes an issue taking selfies! If you're holding the phone, you can only get an arm's length away, and that's not good. (Not to mention awkward pose that often results.) Selfie sticks help, but if you can, ask someone else to take the photo or invest in a tripod. The latter doesn't cost that much, and it will be money very well spent.



Look down on the subject

As well as stepping back from our model, looking down on the subject from a small angle also helps get a more flattering look. That said, don't overdo it. If snapping a child or even a family pet, get down to their height. As a general rule, looking up at a face doesn't show people off at their best. If your subject is taller than you, see if you can find something (safe!) to stand on.

Here I’ve taken a couple of photos of the lovely Marisa. When we look up it gives a view up the model’s nose and a unflattering view of the neck. Notice how much more pleasing the second image is, when we take the photo looking down towards Marisa.



Focus on the eyes

With the odd artistic exception, we'll be wanting the person(s) in our portrait photo to be nicely in focus. Getting the focus on the eyes produces the most flattering results.

In the first picture the camera has focused on the flower. The second photo the focus is on the eyes. Again a dramatic difference.

Some cameras try and work out focus from the whole scene; in other cameras, you can set an area or even a spot you'd like the camera to focus on. Sometimes this in the centre of the viewfinder (or screen) - on more advanced cameras you can move the area off-centre. If your camera can, and you are feeling more ambitious, you may like to consider using a smaller area to focus as this will give you greater control.

Whatever your camera set up, the place to focus is your model's eyes. If the model’s face is turned away, focus on the eye nearest to you.

Most cameras (rather than phones) use the same button (shutter-release button) to focus and take the picture. You push the button down half-way to focus and all the way to take the photo.

  • Place the eye(s) you want to focus on at the centre, and press the shutter button down half-way to focus (if you have an off centre focus spot, you’ll need to place the eye here instead of the centre).
  • Keep holding the button in its half-way position.
  • At this point, the focus should stay fixed so that you can recompose the picture; don't move the camera closer or further away, though.
  • Once you are happy with the composition press the shutter button all the way, down to take the image.

On a phone, the process is slightly different. Most phones allow you to tap the screen to select the focus point. You can therefore set your composition, and then tap on the eye you want to focus on. Then (without moving the camera) take the picture.


As we step out from lockdown, we have the perfect time to put our new skills into practice. These are all basic steps that will help our photographs take a big step forward. I'm very grateful for my model Marisa agreeing to have unflattering photographs taken.

Next time we'll be looking at how to position our model and thinking about some basic composition techniques.

Until then, happy snapping!